The only ship of this capability and what an opportunity so we had to take advantage of it. The following describes the actual experience we had.
Flight from Paris
We were offered the opportunity to pay to upgrade to business class and accepted it, the flight was supposed to leave at 10 a.m. but we did not leave the terminal, on a bus, to the plane until after 10:05. We had to carry luggage up the stairs and when we boarded were told it was open seating, despite having received a seat assignment on our boarding pass. This was fine as our boarding passes had us in row 22 and we were able to sit in row 8. The plane was very nice, service from the crew was mostly very good. The food was meh, but drinks were plentiful. Despite leaving late we arrived about 20 minutes earlier than the scheduled flight time and quickly boarded a bus to take us to the tender. The local people took care of retrieving our checked baggage. It was cold and windy when we got off the bus after a roughly 7-minute trip and there was no tender waiting. We stood around for over 10 minutes until one of the expedition team came and called the bridge to send over a tender with another 5 minute wait. This was a major fail on the part of Ponant, the tender should have been waiting for the bus.
Embarkation
Upon arriving at the ship a gentleman insisted on bringing my carry-on bags up the gangway, although no one took my wife’s bags which were heavier than mine. We went to reception, turned in the paper forms we had printed out and filled in, handed over our passports, submitted credit card info, and were given room keys. We went to our suite and unpacked the carry-on bags, and then took a brief tour of the ship and got to know two of the bartenders when we stopped for a drink. When we returned to our suite the room attendant was just delivering our checked bags. There was no welcome bottle of champagne in the room and the wine we asked for was not present.
At approximately 6:10 p.m. we were told to report to the theater for the muster drill. We have sailed 25 times prior and this was the longest muster drill, with English and French being alternating and discussions about what should happen if we had to abandon the ship along with videos. As we looked around the room we noticed both French and English speakers were in the minority as there were a large number of passengers from mainland China and Tawain present.
Afterwards we went for a pre-dinner cocktail and then dinner at NUNA which is a cooperation with Alain Ducasse, which has a very limited menu. During the cruise we would mostly dine at NUNA, the food was good but the first night my fish main course was just barely warm.
The second day was a sea day, not yet in the ice until around 5 p.m. Attended a presentation by the Captain and the expedition leader, now given in 3 languages due to a large contingent of Chinese speaking passengers on-board. So presentations are very long due to having someone say the same thing 3 times (although the French one always seems longer so wonder if we are missing out on something). Lunch at the buffet restaurant SILA was not very good, dried out lamb although sauce was tasty, no dishes that were more than barely warm. Dinner was back at NUNA and good but other than my soup food was just warm, not hot.
Monday was another sea / ice day and we woke up to crashing thru the ice. Coffee at the Observation bar and then a breakfast at the buffet which was just OK. Expected better croissants given this is a French line, eggs just warm not hot. Seeing a recurring theme here?
Tuesday was another full day of travelling thru the ice, we and many others spent time out on the decks watching the ship navigate the ice, seeing the cracks that form, listening to the sounds made, and in awe of the colors of the broken-up ice. It was an amazing time.
We arrived at 90.0.0 North at 6:17 p.m. on Wednesday. There was a celebration out on deck 6 which is the helicopter pad. At about 6:30 the elevator that brings the helicopter up and down opened up and accompanied by the saxophonist came several officers with glasses of champagne and caviar. The Captain posed for pictures with the pax and a sign with the coordinates of the North Pole. Afterwards we all went to dinner and the Captain repositioned the ship into a large and stable ice floe. We were then offered the chance after dinner to walk on the ice which almost everyone did. However, the time was cut short when a female polar bear appeared and we were quickly hustled back on-board. The bear hung around for 45 minutes or so with everyone taking pictures and videos of it.
Thursday we were allowed to get off again and there were various options including skis, snowshoes, the survival tent had been setup, walking poles were available, a sled created by the carpenter was available for pulling someone on, etc. After lunch was the polar plunge which was well attended. (My wide did it but I did not as a recent EGK was required to participate and I did not bring a copy.) At 6 p.m. we set sail back to Svalbard with several stops and then to Greenland.
The next 2 days were again spent in the ice. Food continued to be mostly good to very good, soups usually hot, mains sometime hot other times just warm.
The actual itinerary turned out to look nothing like what was in the original description, which was fine just went into it with a different expectation. Expedition team were all friendly, some more than others, but all that we encountered were very knowledgeable. Lindsey, who was our zodiac driver on 2 occasions, was very well versed in multiple topics. It was said multiple times during the first couple of days that the actual itinerary would be subject to various factors, although mostly weather, which is totally understandable. However, I for one, would have appreciated if they at least conveyed where and what they hoped to do over the course of a few days just for better planning of my days. When we disembarked Joel, who we know from a different cruise line when we sailed to Antarctica, was there to assist with our luggage to the taxi.
Suites
The suites are very modern in design, we had a Deluxe Suite which is 301 sq feet with a very comfortable bed and a verandah with 2 chairs and a table. The layout could be better, while it has a very nice large shower, there is a only single sink. There is no walk-in closet and very limited space, IMO, given this ship is all about expeditions, for drying wet clothes. There is a typical bar fridge, although only stocked with mini-bottles of spirits. There is also a Nespresso coffee machine – which we never used. There is a couch and a table but only 1 chair which presents some issues if one wants to order room service.
Pros
Very impressive ship as far as the cutting-edge technology; a walking track on deck 5 the entire length of the ship; excellent crew – super attentive and not a single one you wanted to avoid; open bridge policy; the tenders are the nicest and most comfortable we have ever been on; the bread – except for the croissants – is wonderful (from someone who bakes their own bread); soups – with ironically the exception of French onion – were all very tasty and usually served hot; mains were usually very good sometimes arrived hot but more often warm. Wine glasses usually refilled at meals before they are empty. Suite attendant was mostly unseen but typically the room was refreshed within an hour of us putting on the makeup room light and every time we saw him he wanted to insure we were completely satisfied. Wonderfully large and plush bath towels. The bar on deck 9 is welcoming and offers great views. We liked that during the day various single musicians play in different venues (reminded us of Crystal). Nothing was ever a problem for the crew to do for you.
Cons
No self-serve guest laundry. We do not want to do laundry on a cruise but it would be nice to have the ability to throw wet clothes into a dryer after a zodiac ride. Limited choice of menu in Nuna, surprised no option for a hamburger or sandwiches at lunch in Nuna. Briefings and other presentations done in French and English (not a problem we expected this) but the Chinese translator sometimes talking so loudly in the theater that we can’t hear the main presenter. Only 2 choices of included white and red wines plus one Rose. Good cheese selection but no port wine to accompany them included. (Flight home on BA to Las Vegas had better wines and a port). Upcharges for many drinks. Some announcements are difficult to understand given the accent of the Captain when speaking in English. Told there would be an envelope in our suite for gratuities for the crew. At the price point we paid gratuities should have been included. Totally did not like the fact that no map of the itinerary nor cruise video were included, you could BUY them – sorry but this is inexcusable IMO. When we went to Antarctica, on a different line, everyone received a video of the cruise. Here you could pay from 70 to 270 or more Euros for pictures / videos. Picture meeting the captain on not so formal night: 7 Euros. Total lack of adherence to the dress code by 95% of the pax. Also there was very little recognition of people by name, only a few crew, mostly bar waiters, called us by name but only because they asked us our names. No officer addressed us by name which when only 199 pax you think they could learn a few names.
Take away
Would we sail on Ponant again? Lots of excellent things, from the capability of the ship to the crew and the mostly very good food. We only did this cruise due to the unique itinerary and a future Ponant would have to be totally unique and something we are interested in, right now there is only one.