I just got back from an 11 day cruise to Antarctica (December 2025) and wanted to make sure I wrote a review because I struggled finding information about Atlas when I was planning my trip and want to help future cruisers. This is more about Atlas than just Antarctica itself (it’s amazing, you should absolutely go!), revealing what to expect and attempting to compare it to other cruise lines.
The TLDR version of this is: It was incredible, they exceeded expectations and I’d definitely recommend you use them.
For some context, we (my wife and I) are in our 40’s and have taken about 6-8 traditional cruises with several companies and different-sized ships. So while in some ways that’s what I am comparing this to, this Antarctic cruise is an expedition cruise which needs to be differentiated from a traditional cruise. Not only are you going on expeditions each day but the ship itself is going on an expedition. The weather, the wave size, the strength of the wind, the visibility and the wandering sea ice will all dictate where the ship goes and what activities you can do. And that will change day to day. This is why they don’t give an itinerary. You just have to trust them and in our experience that trust was certainly well-placed. Just know that you’ll definitely see some of the Shetland Islands and parts of the Antarctic Peninsula.
This is what the process looked like for us (we did the 11 day cruise):
Included is a hotel stay in downtown Buenos Aires (it’s a nice hotel) the night before the cruise. There was a table set up for Atlas passengers in the lobby that gave us some documents and instructions. We were assigned to buses and left very early the next day to go to the EZE airport. A boxed breakfast was included. At the airport, there were a lot of people with signs directing us where to go. Also included is a chartered flight from Buenos Aires to Ushuaia, and we got a boxed lunch on the flight.
In Ushuaia, again there were people directing us to our assigned buses. We then did a bus tour of the national park just outside the town. There were several stops to look around. It’s nice mountain/water scenery. We went up to a hill-side restaurant with great views for a meal that was also included. Afterwards we were taken to the ship to embark. There wasn’t any free time to explore the city. On board, there was a safety drill and a staff introduction in the theater with some instructions.
Day 1 – Drake passage. There were lectures by the expedition teams (more on them later) throughout the Drake passage days on the way there and back. The topics ranged widely from whales to birds to Antarctic treaties to exploration to climate change and more. Very worthwhile and informative. You could watch from the theater or the video feed in your room and one of the lounges. The waves weren’t too bad the first day. They organized a little hallway party with drinks so that we could get to know our neighbours. This was brilliant and we ended being good friends, with the 10 of us choosing to eat together every night after that.
Day 2 – Drake passage. Waves were worse in the morning and I was starting to feel low level sea sick. It didn’t last too long because we got to the Shetland Islands early. And because we made such good time we got an extra zodiac activity in the afternoon. We went to an island with a large penguin colony and got to walk around in amongst time (at a safe distance but sometimes they’d walk up close to us). Every day of the trip had a recap presentation with the expedition crew talking about what we saw, including pictures, maps and mini lectures. These were must-see viewing.
Day 3 – We made it to the Antarctic peninsula and in the morning went on land to finally set foot on the continent mainland. This was the trickiest outting because there was a somewhat steep slope and the trail became icy. Beautiful views and icebergs all around. In the afternoon we were supposed to do another landing but the bay we were in suddenly had about 20 humpback whales in it so they changed the itinerary. We went out on zodiacs and we did some amazing whale watching and were able to get up close. At one point for our zodiac, two whales suddenly emerged 20 yards to our right then dove under the boat and emerged 10 yards to our left. It was incredible. Every boat had amazing experiences.
Day 4 – In the morning we did a zodiac cruise and saw seals for our first time and an uninhabited base built in the 50’s. Just for context, other than the other people on the ship, we didn’t see any other human beings at any time during the cruise. Only about 3 times we saw another ship in the distance.
Day 5 – This was my favourite day. We went through the Lemaire Channel which is narrow with towering mountains on each side and floating icebergs (we had to go slow because of the ice bergs and we actually run into some). The water was smooth as glass and sun was shining. I can’t tell you how beautiful this was. In the afternoon we did landings and walked through some penguin colonies to a lookout point with views that only pictures and video can describe.
Day 6 – In the morning, we went to a small island with lots of seals and penguins. At noon half the ship participated in the polar plunge (including my wife and I). It was damn cold but they pulled you out so fast that your core temperature doesn’t changed and I felt fine right afterwards. It’s worth doing. In the afternoon, we did a zodiac cruise of some amazing rock formations, some of which had narrow arches that the zodiacs could drive through. The expedition team were especially thrilled because they said it’s been a few years since they were lucky enough for conditions to right to get up right close to them and into the arches. Usually there is too much floating ice around it.
Day 7 – In the morning, there was too much ice around the island they wanted to go to so we did zodiac cruising in around the ice to get a close-up of what it’s like. Some icebergs had seals and penguins relaxing on them. In the afternoon, the ship cruised through some giant ice burgs. Also that afternoon, one of the expedition team members gave a fascinating presentation about him being on the ship that was searching for the sunken Shackelton ship “Endurance”.
Day 8 – In the morning we went to an island and did a hike (you could choose easy, medium or hard) to see some amazing views. In the afternoon we went to Deception Island which was incredible for so many reasons (the shape of the island, the 120 year old whale processing plant that is still in remarkable condition, evidence of recent volcanic activity etc). That night we left for the Drake passge
Day 9 – At 3am the seas got pretty rough and we were bouncing around in our beds. Most people didn’t feel very great for this day and the dining room was missing at least a third of the people that night. Lots of lectures from the staff
Day 10 – It was a lot calmer and we arrived in the straight near Ushuaia around noon and stayed for quite a while. Lots of lectures and activities. We toured the galley where they made all the food.
Day 11 – When we awoke we were docked. We got off in groups starting at 9:10am and buses took us to the airport. Again, people were there to direct us to our included chartered flight to Buenos Aires. Once we got to Buenos Aires we were on our own. We had a bit of a delay in Ushuaia and got our bags by 4:30pm. So if you want to get a flight out of Buenos Aires that same day you’ll want a flight that leaves later than 6pm.
Now let me actually review some of the aspects:
THE SHIP – I believe Atlas has three ships and I was told they are all basically the same with some minor cosmetic differences. We took the World Navigator. At the top of the ship is a walking track you’ll almost never want to use because of temperature. Level 7 has the pool which was actually open although I’m not sure anyone used and two hot tubs that were open most of the trip and we used one day. There is an outdoor bar and outdoor seating that wasn’t in use. On that level was “The Dome” at the front. A large lounge with panoramic views. This was our favourite place to hang out on. Deck 6 is the bridge and rooms. Deck 5 is rooms. Deck 4 is the restaurant, a small gift shop, a café (Paula’s Pantry), reception, a small spa section, a section with a sauna (with large windows looking out) and relaxation room with padded recliner chairs, a large lounge and the theater/auditorium at the front. Level 3 was the rooms without balconies and the locker room for our jackets, boots and life jackets.
I was a little worried that the ship would be cramped and maybe hard to find seating but that was never the case. There were 160 guests on board which I believe is the capacity. The sauna and relaxation room were almost always empty and there were always plenty of seats in the lounges. We opted to watch presentations from the comfort of our room but most people went to the auditorium and there was almost always at least one empty seat in between each group. So it wasn’t crammed and it only took a minute or so to empty out.
The ship is only a few years old (I’m pretty sure) and it felt very bright and modern. And from my room nothing was further than two floors so we only used the stairs and hardly anyone every use the elevators. I actually really enjoyed this about the ship – it was easy and fast to get anywhere.
THE ROOMS – My favourite that I’ve been on a cruise ship. Really well laid out, good storage, two chairs and minifridge (stocked with juice, pop and beer… I even got them to stock with a different kind of beer than it came with), a Nespresso machine and TV with some good documentaries about Antarctica for the rare times you have down time. The bathrooms again were the best I’ve seen and the shower was so much better than others I’ve had it’s almost shocking. Big enough for two people, there was a bench, a wand, a rain head faucet and even sprayers coming out of the walls. We had a balcony and it was a good size. It had comfortable chairs and we spent some time with our feet up reading on it. The cabin attendant, like with most cruises was incredible and cleaned our room twice a day. Everyone seemed to love their cabin attendants.
THE EXPEDITION CREW – This is something I didn’t quite know going in. There are about 12, very experienced individuals helping with every excursion. Several have written books or have been part of serious research and expeditions or have specific expertise (ie ornithology or kayaking). The head of this crew was a wildly experienced Frenchman who has spent over 400 days living on Antarctica doing research on top of the expeditions he’s done (and he has the driest sense of humour that had everyone in stitches). The expedition crew scouted locations at every site, they drove the zodiacs, they set up the trails in the snow and were posted at intervals along them, they narrated and taught when we did zodiac tours, they did the lectures and would enthusiastically talk to you about anything when you saw them in the book. I can’t stress how passionate these people were about Antarctica and how seemingly overqualified they were to be driving us around in boats.
THE ZODIAC CRUISES/LANDINGS – They were all amazing and fully worth going. We didn’t skip a thing and never even considered it. They split us into four groups and rotated who would go first each of the days. Groups would meet in the lounge and smaller groups of 10 would go down to the locker room to get their gear on and line up for the zodiacs. We’d go down some stairs and into the boats at water level. Sometimes it was calm and sometimes the boats would be bobbing but they were always holding onto you. There were 8-10 people in the boat plus the driver and you are sitting on the edge facing inwards. The zodiac cruises were about an hour. Sometimes it was windy and snowing (ski goggles are very helpful) and sometimes it was sunny and still. Only a few times did the water splash over the sides but it does happen. When there’s a landing, the zodiac usually gets there in a couple minutes. The crew will stake out paths and areas for you to go and you need to stay within them. When you land, you have about an hour before you need to head back but can go back earlier if you want. Mostly you just wander about at your own pace but twice there were guided walks with crew and the other people in your zodiac. They give you a parka to keep and it is very high quality. I’m excited to use it at home. But make sure you have room in your luggage. They also lend you knee high boots to wear which were good and my feet never got wet.
FOOD AND DRINKS – Food is very subjective, but I thought it was excellent. Very similar in quality, variety and options to what you’d get on Princess or Royal Caribbean, with the presentation being a little nicer. Portions were slightly smaller (but of course you can have as much as you want) which I actually appreciated. Breakfast and lunch are a buffet. I don’t eat breakfast so I didn’t try that but for the lunch, the hot food always changed, and they’d have a different type of roast they were slicing, a live cooking (ie stir fry, risotto, hot pot) and freshly made ice cream every day. You could also order several items from a menu like burgers, crispy chicken sandwich, wraps etc. Those were all excellent. There was a breakfast you could have delivered to your room and room service with a small menu 24 hours a day (including drinks). No extra charge for any of it.
Paula’s Pantry had two large espresso machines you could always get a fancy coffee quite quickly. They also had some very nice pastries, fresh juice and small sandwiches.
For dinner you just show up and find a seat, it’s not the same every night and they rotate when you should be there by group (but only a 30 minute difference from earliest to latest). There are a lot of 2-tops if you just want to be with your partner but you can ask for any size table and they will set it up for you. We had 10 people so we had them set up the same table every night and in that case it didn’t matter if we were in different starting groups, we just went at the beginning. Once in a while, if you came later you’d have to join with another table to eat and not be on your own. Normally I would hate that but there was a lot more communal vibe amongst the guests so it wasn’t uncomfortable. If one thing was a bit lacking, the wait staff was fine but not as good as most cruises I’ve been on. They were a little slow to clear dishes at lunch and never had recommendations or much personality. It certainly wasn’t bad, just a step below other experiences.
The bartenders, on the other hand were better than any of my past experiences. Two of them knew my name before we even met. They had looked at photos and names before the trip and memorized a lot of us. I was a bit shocked. Drink service was fast with lots of options. It was all included (other than some high end stuff you could pay for if you really wanted to) so there was no swiping of cards or anything. Just ask for it and they handed it to you.
UPSELLING AND TIPPING – This was another massive difference from cruises I’ve been on. They pretty much never tried to sell you on anything, they were no upgraded packages or special restaurants or anything like that. Even all the pictures they took they just sent every a link to download them for free. There were two extra excursions. One was kayaking which we did for $200USD each. It was worth it. Half the ship did this. You’d go out in groups on different days while they did landings and for the most part you didn’t miss out on those if you did the kayaking. There was also “camping” for $750. You dig a hole at 9pm, put a sleeping bag in it (no tent) and sleep until 5am. It doesn’t get dark at night so there are no stars. About 25 people did this, we did not. Even the crew seemed to joke about it, like you were a little crazy to do it.
For tipping, I was waiting at the end for the speech about tipping but none came. I asked the manager and he said it’s all included. I asked if I was even allowed to and he said yes. I personally tipped the cabin steward (you can’t do it by credit card, I’m pretty sure) and the bar tenders but there really wasn’t an expectation to do that.
ENTERTAINMENT – There was a Brazilian duet would often do shows or ambient music in the Dome as well as the cruise director who did several singing shows. It certainly wasn’t the high production value of bigger ships but entertaining, none the less. And mostly, people were quite exhausted after a full day of activities that they were rarely looking for things to do after dinner. I suppose if you feel the need to be constantly entertained you may feel like there should have been more to do. For ourselves, we were happy to have drink and read with amazing views in the background in our down time. When the sun doesn’t set until 11pm there is no lack of scenery.
OTHER PASSENGERS – Your experience may be wildly different but the general make up of the passengers looked like this. About 50% American/Canadian, 25% Chinese, 25% other (Brits, Aussies, Indian). There were people in their 20’s up to their 70’s. I’d put average age somewhere around 55 or 60. In our little group of 10 that made friends there was someone born in every decade from 1950’s to 1990’s. So, lots of diversity.
And the majority of people seemed very willing to chat and share stories and generally just really get along on the ship. In fact, I don’t recall witnessing even the slightest argument on board. It really felt like we were all sharing a special moment together. Maybe I just got lucky with this group of people.
COMPARING IT TO OTHER ANTARCTIC CRUISES – Very few people have gone to Antarctica more than once and I assume the number of people who have gone with different companies is miniscule. So it’s certainly hard to make comparisons but there are at least few things that I know. Some large ships just cruise by and don’t make any stops. Cruises with 500 or more passengers are not allowed to do excursions in Antarctica. I don’t know what those cruises get to see but I can’t imagine it’s nearly the same experience. That being said, those cruises are cheaper so if it’s all you can afford you should still go for it. There are also other ships that have up to 400 passengers (remember that Atlas has 160) that tour Antarctica. When you have ships that size they are only able to do one excursion per day because how long it takes to get everyone out to see it. Sites in Antarctica only allow 100 people at a time. So I feel with a 400 person boat you will get to see considerably less.
The only other cruise line I could get any first hand knowledge (through someone who has worked on both ships) is National Geographic. From what I heard, they offer all the same luxury, outing/expedition experiences and expertise but their ships are better and more custom-made for Antarctica (they faster and they are ice breakers) so there is a little more they are able to cope with and go out and see. So why not just go with Nat Geo instead? They are considerably more expensive – almost three times as much. If money is no issue, by all means go Nat Geo but if you want 85% of the experience for a third of the price, Atlas is a good option.
EXPECTATIONS – The crew really stressed that every trip is different and the itinerary can shift massively based on weather, ice and luck. This is precisely why they don’t give a detailed itinerary. I feel like Atlas really under promised and over delivered. My best guess is you could get unlucky and have a less than ideal trip but it would still be amazing. And in talking to a lot of the other passengers I didn’t hear a single person say they were anything less than thrilled with the trip and what was offered and how it unfolded. A lot of people paid a lot of money to do this and from what I heard, the consensus what that it was well worth it.
NIT PICKS – Just so this doesn’t sound like I’m some bot writing on behalf of the company I’ll say what I didn’t like as much. Like I said before the dining room service could improve. The water temperature in the shower was very temperamental – the smallest movements of the knob would have big effects and the water temperature could suddenly change mid shower. And in general, while they sent us a lot of information I did feel like I really didn’t know how a lot of things were going to work going into it (hence why I’m writing this review). The information did become a lot clearer once we got on board, though.
One last thing, and this doesn’t have to do with Atlas, just Antarctica in general: research when you want to go. It makes a difference. We went early December and I’ve been clear that I absolutely loved it, but knowing what I know now I’d come in January or February. Still, don’t let that dissuade from going in December. There’s just a few more wildlife you’ll see and less likely that ice will bar your way.